Colourful houses clustered around a natural harbour, immaculate yachts and emerald water: Portofino embodies the elegance of the Italian Riviera. Here is how to make it an exceptional day trip from Monaco.
A handful of ochre and pink houses clustered around a tiny square, immaculate yachts moored in front of the cafés, emerald water closing off the bay like a jewel box: Portofino can be summed up in a single image, and yet this fishing village turned jet-set hideaway has to be earned. From Monaco, the pearl of the Italian Riviera is within reach as a well-organised day trip. In this guide, we explain how to get to Portofino, what to see once you are there, where to lay your towel at Paraggi, how to avoid the parking pitfalls, and when to come to enjoy the village without the crowds.
Port Palace is a boutique hotel on Port Hercule, facing the yachts of Monaco. Needless to say, Liguria and its legendary harbours are among our favourite playgrounds. Here is everything you need to know before you set off.
Why visit Portofino, the pearl of the Italian Riviera
Portofino is not a large town to explore but a setting to savour. The village comes down to a handful of lanes, a legendary Piazzetta, a horseshoe-shaped natural harbour and hills covered with maritime pines and olive trees that tumble into the Mediterranean. Everything here is mineral, colourful and photogenic.
This pocket-sized gem lived for centuries on fishing and trade before becoming, from the 1950s and 1960s onwards, the meeting point of film stars, shipowners and royal families. To this day, Portofino remains a symbol of Italian elegance, between luxury yachts, designer boutiques and terraces where you sip a spritz while watching the ballet of the boats.
For anyone staying on the French Riviera, it is also the natural extension of an Italian itinerary. After the city of flowers, San Remo or the gentle charm of Bordighera, Portofino marks the summit of the Ligurian Riviera: farther, more exclusive, but unforgettable.
💡 The concierge's tip
« Leave Monaco before 8am to reach Portofino in the morning and enjoy the village before the tour groups arrive. The morning light on the colourful façades is also the most beautiful for photographers. »
How to get to Portofino from Monaco
First things first: Portofino lies about 215 kilometres east of Monaco, roughly 2h30 by road. It is not next door, but the excursion is well worth the journey, especially if you leave early in the morning. Here are the three main options.
By car
The car remains the most flexible and fastest option. From Monaco, you join the A10 motorway (Autostrada dei Fiori) towards Genoa, then take the Rapallo exit. From there, a scenic road leads to Santa Margherita Ligure and on to Portofino. Allow between 2h20 and 2h45 depending on traffic. Note that, as the village of Portofino is closed to unauthorised vehicles, you will have to park beforehand (see our dedicated parking section).
By train
There is no station in Portofino itself. The nearest one is Santa Margherita Ligure - Portofino, connected to Genoa and the rest of Liguria. From Monaco, the journey usually involves one or two changes (often via Ventimiglia then Genoa), for a total time of around 3h to 3h30. Once in Santa Margherita, the line 82 bus reaches Portofino in about fifteen minutes, or you can opt for the more pleasant ferry.
By boat
This is the most beautiful way to arrive. Maritime shuttles run by the Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio connect Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo and Camogli to Portofino from April to October. Discovering the village from the sea, watching the colourful façades and the bell tower above the harbour gradually take shape, remains one of the great pleasures of the Riviera. For our hotel guests, our team can also arrange an approach by private yacht, the most exclusive arrival of all.
Things to do in Portofino: the must-sees
Half a day is enough to grasp the soul of Portofino, but a full day lets you add a swim and a hike. Here are the visits not to miss.
The Piazzetta and the harbour
The beating heart of the village, the Piazzetta (officially Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta) is that small square opening onto the harbour, lined with houses in shades of ochre, yellow and pink. Here you enjoy a coffee facing the yachts, browse the windows of the great Italian houses and watch the comings and goings of fishermen and yachtsmen. It is the place where you simply sit and watch Portofino come alive.
Castello Brown
Perched above the harbour, Castello Brown is a fortress whose origins go back to the Middle Ages, long tasked with defending Portofino. Renovated in the 19th century by the British consul Montague Yeats Brown, who gave it his name, the castle offers from its terraces and gardens one of the finest sweeping views over the bay. The climb is on foot via a shaded stairway, about ten minutes from the Piazzetta.
San Giorgio church and the lighthouse
Continuing the walk towards the headland, you reach the church of San Giorgio, set on a promontory facing the sea, then the famous Faro di Portofino, the lighthouse at the tip of the cape. The path, perfectly marked and accessible, crosses fragrant Mediterranean vegetation. At the end, the reward: a 180-degree panorama over the Gulf of Tigullio. It is the perfect spot for an aperitif at sunset.
Make Monaco your base camp for exploring the Italian Riviera.
Check availabilitySan Fruttuoso Abbey and the Christ of the Abyss
A few minutes by boat from Portofino, the bay of San Fruttuoso shelters a thousand-year-old abbey nestled between mountain and sea, accessible only by boat or on foot via the park's trails. In its waters rests the Christ of the Abyss (Cristo degli Abissi), a bronze statue submerged since 1954 at a depth of about 17 metres, watching over lost sailors. Divers and snorkelling enthusiasts come to admire it, but you can also glimpse it during glass-bottom boat trips.
The nature park and hiking trails
The Portofino peninsula forms a regional nature park crisscrossed with hiking paths. The most iconic links Portofino to San Fruttuoso through the pines and coves (about 2 hours of walking, with elevation gain), before possibly continuing on to Camogli. Bring good shoes and water: the landscapes, for their part, are worth every effort.
Portofino's beaches: Paraggi and swimming
Portofino itself has no sandy beach. Swimming is concentrated at the magnificent cove of Paraggi, a few minutes from the village on the road to Santa Margherita. Its small sheltered bay, with translucent water shading into emerald green, sometimes earns it the nickname of the little Ligurian Caribbean.
Part of the beach is public and free, the rest is occupied by chic beach clubs where loungers and parasols are booked in advance, especially in high season. Paddleboarding, swimming and lazing about reign supreme here. For a wilder experience, some coves reachable on foot or by boat along the peninsula reward the most curious.
☉ Good to know
At Paraggi, the loungers and parasols of the private beach clubs are booked in advance and command high rates in July and August. Arrive early to enjoy the free public stretch, or reserve your space before setting off to avoid any disappointment in high season.
Where to eat in Portofino: Ligurian cuisine
Liguria is the birthplace of pesto alla genovese, that sauce of basil, pine nuts, garlic, olive oil and parmesan which flavours local pasta such as trofie and trenette. In Portofino, you also savour soft focaccia, the day's seafood, Riviera anchovies and grilled fish, all washed down with a fresh Ligurian white wine.
The harbourside terraces charge prices to match the setting: Portofino is a luxury village, and the bill reflects it. For a more affordable meal, Santa Margherita Ligure and Camogli offer excellent addresses in a more authentic atmosphere. Wherever you dine, the freshness of the produce and the generosity of Ligurian cuisine leave a lasting memory.
💡 The concierge's tip
« To enjoy lunch with a view without the crush, book your harbourside table several days ahead. When you stay at Port Palace, your dedicated concierge can take care of it and organise your entire day in Liguria. »
Parking and getting into the village
This is the point that surprises visitors the most: the centre of Portofino is a pedestrian zone and car access is strictly reserved for residents and authorised vehicles (ZTL). In practice, you cannot enter the village by car.
A single paid covered car park sits at the entrance to the village, on Piazza della Libertà, a few steps from the Piazzetta. Rates are high and spaces limited, taken by storm at weekends and in summer (expect several tens of euros for a day in high season). The best strategy is often to park in Santa Margherita Ligure and then reach Portofino by bus (line 82), ferry or taxi. It is more relaxed and more economical.
When to visit Portofino
Portofino can be visited all year round, but each season has its own character. Spring and early autumn offer the best compromise: soft light, pleasant temperatures, a lively yet breathable village. Summer is dazzling but very busy, especially in August. Winter, quieter, reveals an intimate Portofino, ideal for lovers of peace and quiet.
What to see around Portofino
Portofino combines perfectly with the neighbouring gems of the Gulf of Tigullio:
- Santa Margherita Ligure: an elegant Belle Époque seaside resort, the ideal base to explore the region, with its trompe-l'oeil painted palaces and its seafront.
- Camogli: a former fishing village with tall colourful houses, more authentic and less crowded, famous for its fish festival.
- Rapallo: a lively town with its castle on the sea, the departure point for many maritime shuttles.
- San Fruttuoso: the secret bay and its abbey, accessible by boat or on foot.
- The Cinque Terre: a little farther along the coast, the five UNESCO-listed villages deserve a day of their own.
For those extending their trip on the Italian side, our guide to Dolceacqua, the medieval village dear to Monet perfectly rounds off a discovery of the Riviera of Flowers before heading on to Liguria.
Practical information for visiting Portofino
Before you set off, keep these essential pointers to hand to plan your excursion with complete peace of mind.
Portofino from Port Palace
Making Portofino a successful excursion means setting off rested, early and well organised. From Port Palace, our guests enjoy an ideal location on Port Hercule to venture into Italy, and a concierge service able to orchestrate every detail: a private transfer to Liguria, a booking at a beach club in Paraggi, or an approach by sea for yachting enthusiasts.
On the way back, there is nothing like returning to the calm of our suites overlooking Port Hercule and the yachts of Monaco. The Mediterranean art of living, from one legendary harbour to another.
Port Palace Monaco
Venture out to the Italian Riviera from Port Hercule
Our suites overlooking the harbour of Monaco are the ideal starting point for a day in Portofino. Concierge service to orchestrate transfers, bookings and tailor-made excursions.
Book your stayFAQ: your questions about visiting Portofino
How do you get to Portofino from Monaco?
Portofino is about 215 km east of Monaco, roughly 2h30 by car via the A10 motorway to the Rapallo exit. By train, allow 3h to 3h30 with a change, as far as Santa Margherita Ligure - Portofino station, then bus, taxi or ferry. The village has no station of its own.
Can you drive to Portofino?
You can get close by car, but the centre of Portofino is a pedestrian zone closed to unauthorised vehicles (ZTL). You have to park at the paid car park on Piazza della Libertà, at the entrance to the village, or farther back in Santa Margherita Ligure and finish by bus, ferry or taxi.
How long does it take to visit Portofino?
Half a day is enough to discover the Piazzetta, Castello Brown, San Giorgio church and the lighthouse. Allow a full day if you add a swim at Paraggi, a boat trip to San Fruttuoso or a hike in the nature park.
Is there a beach in Portofino?
Portofino itself has no sandy beach. Swimming is mainly at Paraggi, an emerald-water cove a few minutes from the village, combining a free public beach and private beach clubs.
What is the best time to visit Portofino?
Spring (May-June) and early autumn (September) offer the best balance between pleasant weather and reasonable crowds. Summer, especially August, is superb but very busy. Winter is quiet and intimate.
What is there to see around Portofino?
The Gulf of Tigullio is full of treasures: Santa Margherita Ligure, Camogli, Rapallo, the bay of San Fruttuoso and its abbey, and a little farther the villages of the Cinque Terre, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
